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Please note the above - I have NO intention of "altering"
the SLIVER BS, I will just add my comments in bold red
italic under each section.
MY Reply
Brief Historical Summary:
In the 1980’s, a German Shepherd breeder from western New
York state began to visualize a specific type of shepherd
dog; one that was larger, calmly tempered and possessed
better hips than the norm. Through breeding a specific type,
introducing a northern breed to the gene pool, and educating
the public on the benefits of x-raying hips, the Shiloh
Shepherd was “born” and formally recognized as a breed of
dog by FIC in 1990 and ARBA in 1991.
Obviously, since this "historical summary" starts off with a
LIE---the rest of the BS should just be dismissed as
nothing more than "sliver" nonsense!
A. My
"Breed" was named "Shiloh
Shepherd" in 1974, but it still is NOT a "recognized"
breed, because it is
still under development!
B. The
FIC is NOT a credible "recognized" organization like the FCI.
As a matter of fact,
even the AKC will not accept any kind
of fake registrations issued by these FAKE PAPER PUSHERS!
General Appearance:
The Shiloh Shepherd is large, strong and muscular, with
noble expression. He is elegant and athletic; distinguished
by a balanced build and possessing a confident calmness.
If you have
never seen a "Shiloh" what kind of dog would you picture?
Rottweiler,
Leonberger, Greyhound? Think about it - dozens
of breeds could fit THAT description!
Important
Proportions:
Height at withers to length of body: 8.5 to 10. The depth of
chest is nearly 55% of the height at withers
So, how big are
they? The GSD's is clearly defined as "The
depth of chest should be about 45 % to 48 % of the dog’s
height at the withers." If the
chest should make up 55% of the dogs height -- Does this
mean that they want a "Corgi" type of dog?
Behavior/Temperament:
Of flock guardian descent, the Shiloh Shepherd is bred to be
the ultimate companion dog. The Shiloh Shepherd is
courageous, and self confident with an almost supernatural
intelligence. It is an extremely versatile breed that should
always be willing to work and play. They are calm, sweet and
loving with children, elderly people and small animals, yet
bold and brave enough to protect them from harms way.
First they claim
that a "northern breed" (like the Husky?) was used to create
the Shiloh - NOT TRUE - but now they claim "flock guardian"
aka "Molosser breeds" like the
Caucasian Mountain Dogs or the
Livestock Guarding Dogs. Yet they want them to be
excellent companions for small children and the elderly?
Have these folks ever met a true Flock Guardian?
Please note:
<< Another trait common
to the guarding breeds is a predisposition for independent
behavior. Some dog breeds are selected for their
responsiveness to humans, but the guarding breeds have been
historically selected for their ability to act independently
in their guarding role. This trait makes them relatively
hardheaded and unresponsive to verbal commands. >>
The following are
particular requirements of steady temperament:
- Self assurance and superior
composure
- Willing to be submissive; adaptive
to surroundings
- Good capacity to observe, learn and
remember
- Inquisitive to noise without showing
apprehension
- Friendly and amiable yet perceptive
to menacing situations
FAULTS
- Spooking at strange sights or sounds
along with tucking of tail is considered
a very serious fault
This is
true for ANY breed - so why list it here? |
Cranial Region:
SKULL: In profile and viewed from the front, slightly domed.
Width and length should appear to be equal
STOP: Clearly recognizable, gently defined, with slight
center furrow.
Head & Facial Region: The
head is to be wedge shaped, large, yet in proportion to the
body. It is dry in its general appearance, and moderately
broad between the ears, never clumsy or overly long.
Secondary sexual characteristics should be evident.
Upon
reading this description I would be looking for a
White GSD
<<HEAD: The
head is noble, cleanly chiseled, strong, not fine, and in
proportion to the body. The head of the male is distinctly
masculine, and that of the bitch distinctly feminine. Seen
from the front, the forehead is moderately arched, and the
skull slopes (without abrupt stop) into the long,
wedge-shaped muzzle. The muzzle's topline is parallel to
the topline of the skull. >>
or the
Czechoslovakian Wolfdog
<<HEAD
Symmetrical, well
muscled. Seen from the side and from the front above, it
forms a blunt wedge.>>
NOSE: Black, set level with the
muzzle, blunt rather than pointy.
MUZZLE: Smoothly set into the skull, never
running to a point; nasal bridge is level and
parallels the topline of the skull. Breadth is
nearly even. Fur predominantly black in color
LIPS: Close fitting, black, corners of lips
closed.
JAWS: Strong, well developed. Lower jaw is
visible from the front and profile when mouth is
closed.
TEETH: 42 total, 20 upper and 22 lower. Scissor
bite with dentition aligned properly and enamel
healthy.
CHEEKS: Only slightly developed.
EYES: All shades of brown accepted. Medium
sized, almond shaped, obliquely set. Eye rims
are black. Expression is of the utmost
importance and should be keen, soulful, and
reciprocative.
EARS: Erect, stiff, moderately pointed,
triangular in shape. Well cupped, thick leathers
that open toward the front. Height should be
equal to width at base. Base of ears should set
above the eyes.
FAULTS
- A long, narrow or snipey muzzle
- Undershot or overshot bite, wry
mouth
- Weak under jaw
- *SERIOUS-Ears that are out of
proportion; too large and/or tall
- *SERIOUS-Ears that are low set; over
set; or show signs of weakness
- *DISQUALIFYING-Ears that hang on an
adult (over 15 months old)
This
section perfectly describes the King
Shepherd. link to Linda's picture.
Neck: Proportioned to
head and body. Slightly arched without break
to the to the withers. Pleasingly long and
muscular rather than stocky, without
throatiness or dewlap.
Body:
WITHERS: Well defined,
smoothly set into neck and
back.
BACK: Firm, straight, broad.
Length derived from well
laid shoulder and correct
croup length.
LOINS: Viewed from the top;
broad, strong, well muscled
without undue length.
CROUP: Broad, relatively
long, gently rounded with
ideal angle of 30-35
degrees.
CHEST: Broad, deep; reaching
at least to the level of the
elbows, carried well
forward.
RIBS: Well sprung,
relatively long, allowing
unrestricted elbow movement.
ABDOMEN: Firmly held,
slightly tucked.TAIL: Set
well into the croup. Extends
at least to the hock joint.
Full and bushy, especially
on underside. Hangs like a
saber when relaxed; is
lifted more in excitement,
and may rise above the
horizontal plane of topline
in high excitement if tail
remains straight and the tip
does not pass the vertical
line of the croup.
TOPLINE: A smooth gradual
slope from the head; to
nearly level back; to tip of
tail. The head, neck,
wither, back, croup, and
tail are distinctly and
harmoniously represented.
TESTICLES: Males should have
two apparently normal
testicles fully descended
into the scrotum.
FAULTS
- Any deviation from
the proper topline when
standing (sway, roach,
low-stationed)
- Undue length between
last rib and thigh
- Slab-sided or barrel
shaped ribbing
- *SERIOUS-Hook, ring
or gay tail. Short, thin
or ratty tail
- *DISQUALIFYING-Tail
that curls forward past
the vertical line of the
croup
- *DISQUALIFYING-male
dog with absent
testicle(s)
|
Forequarters:
FORELEGS: Heavy boned; straight; parallel
and not too close, dew-claws are present
SHOULDER/UPPER ARM: Near to equal in length,
well muscled, ideal angle being 110 degree;
scapula are long, obliquely set, laid back
at about 30 degrees
ELBOWS: Close to the body, never pinched or
turned out
PASTERN: Strong, firm; straight when seen
from the front, approximate 25 degree angle
from side
FORE FEET: Straight, rounded, compact; toes
well arched; pads are thick and black
Hindquarters: Broad and
well muscled
HIND LEGS: Not too close when viewed from
the rear. Parallel to each other. Dew-claws
are absent
HOCKS: Sturdily built, firm, turned neither
in nor out
PELVIS: Slanting at an ideal 30-35 degree
angle from the horizontal
THIGH: Rather long, full, strongly muscled.
When stacked, femur and metatarsus are
vertical; pelvis and lower leg are parallel
HIND FEET: Straight, toes arched, tight;
pads are thick and black
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Gait/Movement:
The gait is considered a critical aspect of
the breed. The Shiloh Shepherd is built for
a ground-covering, extended, suspended trot.
The limbs must be harmonious in length and
angulation thereby creating a firm and level
back. The hindquarters should push the torso
forward in such a manner that the rear
stride perfectly matches that of the
forequarters. The feet should remain close
to the ground; single tracking is evident.
With the head thrust forward and the tail
slightly lifted, the impression is level,
balanced, animated, and uninterrupted; a
gently flowing overline from the tips of the
ears over the nape and back, through to the
end of the tail.
Form follows function to produce balance,
strength, coordination, and endurance to
allow for many hours of play, service, or
work.
The Shiloh Shepherd must be observed on a
loose lead so the natural gait is evident.
FAULTS
- A back that does not remain firm but
displays a roll, whip, roach or sway
- *SERIOUS–any faults of
gait/structure whether from front, rear
or side
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Coat: Shiloh Shepherds
should be shown in their natural state.
Trimming is only required between the pads
and toes and the excessive “tufts” of hair
inside and around the ears. There are two
acceptable coat varieties, smooth and plush.
In both varieties, the length should be
shorter along the sides of the body,
forelegs, foreface, and feet; with the
length of the coat increasing around the
shoulders and neck, down the back, over the
croup and in the breeches and underside of
the tail.
SMOOTH COAT: A thick, coarse, harsh
double coat. The outer coat should be
straight and dense and lie reasonably close
to the body. The undercoat is dense, from 1
to 2 inches in depth. The back of the
forelegs and hind legs has somewhat longer
hair.
PLUSH COAT: The plush coat may lack
coarseness while still remaining somewhat
harsh. It should have a softer undercoat,
longer mane and chest hairs, and more
pronounced feathering around head,
underline, back of legs and tail. Overall
length of coat should not exceed 3” in torso
area, 6” on legs.
FAULTS
- Any coat that is open, wooly, curly,
too close or too long
Color: Dual
colored coats should always
be black in the
saddle/blanket. Black with
shades of tan, golden tan,
reddish tan, silver, beige,
and cream are as desirable
as various shades of richly
pigmented golden, red, dark
brown, or dark grey. Sables
are equally acceptable in
the same colors with guard
hairs tipped in black and a
lighter undercoat, usually
fawn or grey. Shiloh
Shepherds can also be solid
black or solid white.
A small white patch on
the chest and white hairs on
the toes are tolerated.
Pads, toenails, lips,
nose and eye rims should be
black. Lighter and darker
facial masks and eye
spectacles are acceptable
and desirable.
FAULTS
- White spotting with
exception of chest (no
bigger than palm of an
adult hand) and feet
(allowed on toes only)
- Washed out or pale
colors, blues, livers;
any lack of proper
pigment
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Height & Weight:
Structural perfection
should never be sacrificed
for height. Dogs should be
evaluated for this parameter
at maturity (36 months of
age).
DOGS: Height 28
- 32 inches
BITCHES: Height 26 -
30 inches
Weight of a Shiloh
Shepherd is what represents
optimal condition for the
individual dog/bitch.
FAULT
- *DISQUALIFYING -
Dogs/bitches that do not
meet minimum height
requirements by 36
months of age
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Faults: Any
departure from the foregoing
points should be considered
a fault, and the seriousness
with which the fault should
be regarded should be in
exact proportion to its
degree.
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Scale of Points for
Judging the Shiloh
Shepherd (100 point
total) |
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Gait, Movement |
25 points |
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General Appearance:
strength, size,
balance |
15 points |
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Head and Ears |
15 points |
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Topline, Tail,
Hindquarters |
15 points |
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Forequarters |
10 points |
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Proportions, body,
chest, ribbing,
abdomen |
10 points |
|
Character: alertness
and attitude |
5 points |
|
Color, Coat |
5 points |
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Total |
100 points |
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The
above point scale was stolen from the
original - copyright protected- ISSRS Shiloh
Shepherd Breed Standard! Obviously they
can't seem to come up with "their own"
ideas, but have to steal whatever they THINK
they can get away with! (rolling eyes
emoticon)
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